Near Stolberg the porphyry cone of the Auerberg Mountain rises above the sediment sequences of the Harzgerode Zone. From the car park of the Schindelbruch Naturresort it is only a short one km climb to the top of the Große Auerberg Mt. (579 m above sea level) with the 38 m high Joseph’s Cross. The observatory is the largest double cross in the world. There, where in the 17th century an observation tower had formerly stood, the art-loving Earl JOSEPH ZU STOLBERG-STOLBERG (1771-1839) had a most remarkable tower built. With Karl-Friedrich SCHINKEL (1781-1841) he was able to engage the most famous architect of Germany’s Classical period. SCHINKEL designed the observatory in the form of a double cross, for the construction of which 365 oaks were felled. The observation tower, named after the Earl, was opened in 1834 but was destroyed by lightening in 1880. The Joseph’s Cross was rebuilt in the style of the original design in 1896 with the support of the Harz Club’s Princely Stolberg Chapter, but this time in metal, fabricated by the Dampfkessel- und Gasometerfabrik Braunschweig. The Eiffel Tower, which had been built seven years earlier in Paris on the occasion of the World’s Fair, most probably served as model. In 2006 the completely rehabilitated Joseph’s Cross was named the most beautiful observation tower of the entire Harz and awarded the Harz Nature Park Prize. The tower and surroundings are cared for by the operator of the Bergstübel. The cozy Bergstübel Joseph’s Cross Restaurant is open daily from 9 a.m., offering regional cuisine. Only in winter is it closed on Monday. The rhyolite lava of the Auerberg Mountain consists of a quickly cooled finely crystalline basic mass within which the crystals--the so-called “Stolberg diamonds”--“swim”. These are di-hexahedral crystallized quartzes approximately 1 to 13 mm in size and up to 8 mm orthoclase. The nature resort Schindelbruch is inviting not only because it has a sun terrace and a large children’s play area, but also because it has built a wonderful Walderlebnispfad (forest experience trail) in the immediate surrounds. At the hotel reception we can be outfitted with protective glasses, as there are tools ready at hand along the forest experience trail to crack the “Stolberg diamonds” out of stones placed there expressly for this purpose.

The area covered here was earlier divided between the territory of the Earls of Stolberg (later Prussia) and the territory of the Princes of Anhalt. In the Museum we find, among other things, the following old German chronic: “In May 1563 four miners working the Beiwende Mine, which belonged to the Anhalt Harz District, were taken prisoner by the Earls of Stolberg.” These and other acts of violence accompanied a legal process of over 80 years’ duration of the Reichskammergericht (German Court) between the Princes VON ANHALT and the Earls ZU STOLBERG. The core of the dispute was founded on what the VON ANHALT Princes felt was an incorrect return of the castles and the towns of Güntersberge and Harzgerode in 1536, which the ZU STOLBERG Earls had acquired with resale rights in 1498. The Anhalt dynasty demanded the return of property which the Stolberg Earls claimed to have attained from other families, such as the VON HOYM family. Even a number of investigative commissions appointed by the Reichskammergericht in Speyer could not sufficiently clarify the ownership rights of the two parties as the border markers had disappeared, had been made illegible or in the case of missing affidavits the testimonies of the witnesses were so contradictory that a final decision was impossible. Particularly volatile in this jurisdictional conflict was the determination of the rights to the salt and precious metal mines in the contract of 1498. The mines were not included in the usage rights purchase agreement, but this did not stop the Earls from illegally carrying out mining in the Anhalt territory. As the battle concerning borders and usage rights was causing both parties severe economic loss, they entered into an amicable agreement in 1613. As a result of the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), mining in the Earldom of Stolberg came to a standstill. Renewed operation around 1660 was only moderately successful. New mining technology and German minting laws lead to another renewal of mining in the Straßberg mines at the end of the 17th century. History and techniques of minting coins are given broad attention in the Museum exhibit.

Tours in German and English by prearrangement: +49(0)34654 85960
Opening hours: Wed. - Fri. 10:00 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. and 1:00 – 5:00 p.m.
Sat., Sun., + Holidays 10:00 – 12:00 a.m. and 1:00 – 5:00 p.m.

For those travelling by car there is ample parking available on the former above ground plant area of the Glasebach Mine; simply follow the signs in Straßberg. But also of interest would be a short walk along the Bergbaulehrpfad (Mining Educational Trail) from the Hüttenplatz stop of the Harzer Schmalspurbahn (Harz Narrow Gauge Railway). The above ground plant area presents exponents of mining from the time following the Second World War (operation demonstrations on intact machines). Traces of historical mining from the old mining period, on the other hand, can be discovered in the Glasebach Mine. The descent into the mine begins at the above ground Radstube (wheel chamber), which houses the reconstructed water wheel (9.5 m in diameter). The required protective gear is put on here before going in to experience water lifting technology, various mining and timbering construction methods (oak timbering from the 18th century, dry wall construction), an inclined shaft and histor ic hydraulic engineering techniques as well as discovering the richly colourful mineralization of the mine. Using a stairway constructed in the main shaft the first and second galleries can be reached. The tour takes approximately 80 minutes. After the opening of the Heidelberg Silver Mine north of Straßberg in 1438, the first silver metallurgy blast furnaces were put into operation in 1462 at the smelting works of the Earls of Stolberg. Around 1690 the Seidenglanz Mine, later called the Vertrau auf Gott Mine, is mentioned. During the heyday of Straßberg’s mining in the first half of the 18th century, when at times up to 500 miners were working here, the mine was once again given the name Glasebach. At the turn of the 18th to the 19th century the bankruptcy assets of the Straßberg mining operation were purchased by Anhalt. Nearly 150 years later, in 1950, the old shaft was reopened and the Glasebach Mine explored anew. In the following years fluorite was mined and transported along an underground connection to the Fluor Shaft, where the material was then brought above ground.

www.strassberg-harz.de
Opening hours: (April-October): Tues.-Thurs. 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Sat./Sun. 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Special openings for groups as well as tours in English by prearrangement:
+49(0)39489 226

Coming from the Stolberg Marktplatz we drive along the Rittergasse, pass through the Rittertor (gate) and park the car at the Hotel Chalet Waldfrieden. The architect of this imposing building was no lesser person than the Berlin architect KARLFRIEDRICH SCHINKEL. It was built 1820 on commission of the Earls of STOLBERG ZU STOLBERG as a Schützenhaus for marksmen. Today it houses a hotel and restaurant as well as a coffee machine museum (www.kaffeemaschinen-museum.de). After our trek to the cliffs of the Pfingstfelsen we follow the invitation of the Beutel family and visit this unique museum (open 2:00 - 5:00 p.m. daily except Monday and Tuesday, admittance free). But first we walk further upwards in the Lude Valley, passing the Waldbad, a forest swimming pool, and Reiterhof riding grounds. A particularly attractive landscape view opens up onto the Swiss huts nestled in a spacious forest meadow. The trail, with the Harz Club trail mark of a yellow stripe on a white background, bears from here on the curious name “Besoffener Weg” (Drunken Way). To the left of the path the Lude Stream babbles along and to the right on the slope of the Benedixköpfe the impressive cliffs line up. Numbering among these are the Pfingstfelsen (Whitson Cliffs), which provide a glimpse into the earth’s history. Naturally occurring diabase (dolerite, a type of submarine basalt) can be seen. From the month of May on into the summer the seductive scent of dame’s violet (Hesperis matronalis), an up to 2.5 m tall cruciferous plant, fills the air. Those who fear losing their way can follow the path to the Ludeteich (pond) and then return to the starting point. The alternatives of walking past the Tannengarten (Pine Garden) in the direction of the Stolberg Castle or past the Röhrenteich (Reed Pond) back to the Lude Valley are attractive.

The chosen point of departure for a tour with much to experience, passing in part through Landmark 15, is Harzgerode. The route consists of several segments each of which is suitable for a half or full day tour. Harzgerode was chosen as the point of departure because the rather unassuming castle there still housed the Anhalt Mining Department in the 19th century. A very beautiful depiction of the ore vein system of the ore mined here can be seen on the fountain on the Marktplatz of the town (see also the Landmark flyer). From the large car park on the B242 we follow along the B242 to the junction with “Am Ehrenberg” Street. Now we take the pleasant overgrown trail across the dam crossing the Hahnröder Teich (Pond). After crossing over the tracks of the Harz Narrow Gauge Railway we first keep to the right and use the circuit route in the direction of Himmelsgarten (Heaven’s Garden) and the Liebeslaube (Lovers’ Arbour), respectively.

The Liebeslaube is a weather shelter located directly above the Schneckenberg Quarry, which was in operation until 1938. Exposed there are the Hercynkalke (limestones) of a large block of rock lying in geologically foreign surroundings (Großolistholithe in the Harzgerode Zone). It is part of the Harzgerode Olisthostrom, a sediment body with chaotic texture formed from a gravity-induced sludge flow which became imbedded in the sediments of the area in which it came to rest. The quarry reveals a particular structural geologic composition of Devonian limestone. It is the most well known point of discovery of the princeps limestone fauna (fossils from the lower Devonian beginning 405 million years ago).

After visiting the Schneckenberg Quarry the tour continues along the circuit trail. We take the next trail branching off to the right, keep to the left and soon reach the Paul – Krause - Hütte (a Harz Club weather shelter with info marker). From there it is only a few steps to the Trompel nature monument--a circle of old maple and lime trees which mark the location of the third shaft of the Schwefelstollen (Sulphur Gallery). In 1880 the shaft was backfilled and the ground levelled. The trees are from that time. The Schwefel Gallery followed the Reichen Davidsgang lode. Up until 1752 pyrite and galena were extracted. Next we follow the very well executed nature education trail in the direction of the Köthener Hütte shelter, built in 1897. At one point on the trail a number of hunting facilities present themselves reminding one of an adventure playground. But it gets more adventurous after we have turned off at the Köthener Hütte onto the southerly extending downhill path, called the Klippenweg, in the direction of the town of Alexisbad. First we pass by the Teufelsklippen before reaching the Pionier Tunnel. Here the hike takes us underground for a little way. The tunnel was erected by the Second Company of the Magdeburger Pionier Battalion No. 4 (Engineering Corps) in May 1900. It is in part timbered in accordance with mining technology and offers protection from rain or the opportunity to cool off during hot summer weather.

Centuries ago the Hagenrode working monastery was located in the Selke Valley. In 933 King OTTO III granted the Abbot the right to hold market, to mint coins and to collect toll fees in Hagenrode, which at that time was the administration centre of the Harz properties of the Nienburg Monastery. Following the dissolution of the Monastery during the Reformation its administration was transferred from Nienburg to the regional sovereigns. During the Peasants’ Revolt in 1525 it was ravaged by marauding peasants. In 1870 the stones were used to construct the Hotel Klostermühle. From this historic location we follow the Weg Deutscher Kaiser und Könige (Route of German Emperors and Kings) upward through the Friedenstal Valley. Soon we reach a place where the tracks of ironclad wagon wheels worn into the stone have been washed free by the stream. At this point the vertically layered slate slabs, placed there to stabilise the ground and provide secure footing for the draught animals, are clearly visible. This elaborate road construction indicates the former importance of the Friedenstal Valley. Further up the valley cascade-like dam reservoirs for storing water to drive the waterwheels, which were used for widely divergent purposes in the Mägdesprung area (Landmark 15), were located. Finally we reach the entrance to the mine in which, from 1708 through 1741, under its name at that time, Fürst Karl Wilhelm Mine, a total of 122,000 tonnes of copper pyrite were extracted-- sufficient for the production of 25 tonnes of copper per year. The lode also bore fluorite, arsenic pyrite, pyrite and wolframite. The lode runs through granite at a southerly slope of about 65°. When Prince VICTOR II FRIEDRICH VON ANHALTBERNBURG (1700-1765) took over the mine in the Anhalt Harz, mining was discontinued. The mine was apparently no longer profitable.

To provide water power for draining the Fürst Karl Wilhelm Mine two ponds, the Erichsburger Teich (1709) and the Bergrat Müller Teich (1737/38) , were constructed above it. Bergrat MÜLLER from Gernrode was an important mining expert of his time. A small and heavily overgrown quarry at the Bergrat Müller Teich exposes two-mica granite of the Ramberg with a well-formed weathering zone (Upper Carboniferous). Of particular interest is a border stone on the dam of the Bergrat Müller Pond. It is evidence of the Schlageinteilung (forest timber allotment rights), for which the Duchy of Anhalt’s forestry commissioner, JOHANN JACOB BÜCHTIG (1729- 1799), was responsible. BÜCHTIG was the first German practical forestry officer with a university degree (Halle University) and held the office of Bergamtsassessor (state mining inspector) in Harzgerode from 1765 on. From the romantic blockhouse complex of the Merkelbach Ferienpark along the Beckstraße, just 700 m in the direction of Siptenfelde, a small path left of the embankment leads up to the Erichsberg Mountain. There the old earth defence walls and the still-visible stone remnants of the administration area are located: a house and residence tower of the former core citadel. The Erichsburg (9 was sold to the Earls of STOLBERG in 1320. The “Spangenberg Mansfeldische Chronica” from 1572 reports on its further destiny as follows: The robber baron of the worst sort, Earl HERMANN VON STOLBERG, carried out his deeds, sparing no one, until the landed Earl of Thuringia together with citizens from Erfurt, Mühlhausen and Nordhausen laid the robber’s nest waste and held the severest of judgements. The Earl was forced to swear he would never rebuild the citadel. It has remained vacant ever since. In the immediate vicinity mining may have been carried out in the Middle Ages (the so-called “Erichsburger Glanz”).

About one kilometre further we leave the Beckstraße and descend to the right towards the valley, then follow the signs to Forsthaus Uhlenstein. A pond stretches before the idyllically situated forest house. Continuing along into the valley we come to the former Brachmannsberg Quarry , which as recently as a few years ago was partially backfilled with material from the construction of the water drainage gallery in the valley of the Uhlen Stream. At the quarry the main shaft of the Brachmannsberg Mine, drifted in 1784 to a depth of 50 - 55 m, is located. Fluorite was extracted. Finely dispersed pyrite was responsible for acidification and contamination of the mine water, which even today cannot be fed into the drainage canal before having undergone the necessary treatment. Further down the valley we must cross the B242 thoroughfare, and follow approximately 100 m along it to the right. Soon the opening to the Brachmannsberg Gallery, drifted 1995 -1998, is reached. Just as the Biwende Gallery on the other side of the valley, it was also used for controlled drainage of the old mines. After the drainage gallery had been drifted a water treatment plant was erected between the two gallery openings. 11 Where the Uhlenbach Valley opens onto the Selke Valley the route follows along the district road into the town of Silberhütte. There, where a potassium works and an oil mill formerly stood, a silver smelter was set up in 1692. In 1752 this plant made way for a royal glass factory, which produced, in particular, large-pane glass tableware. A large cast-iron plaque there calls attention to the fact that Duke ALEXIUS FRIEDRICH CHRISTIAN (1767-1834) had the glass smelting works revamped and improved in the year MDCCCXXV 1825.

The Harzer Waldhof has developed into a point of particular interest, not only for school classes and families with children. This open air museum was first erected in connection with public relations work of the Harzgerode Forestry Department. Together with a group of interested supporters, the State Forestry Department has further augmented the complex and added an exhibit (including information about historic power saws) in the former train station building. On the freely accessible property the development of forestry and its (earlier) importance to mining and charcoal production, as well as today’s important forest functions as provider (wood), protector (nature, water, and soil conservation) and as a recreational resource are presented, in German.

Beginning directly on the Waldhof site a four km long geological trail crosses over the Wolfsberg Mt. to the Birnbaumteich Pond. If one does not wish to wipe the morning dew from the grass growing along the path one should not begin the walk in the early morning! At the Birnbaumteich Ferienpark, a holiday camp, we find the starting point of the Neudorfer Bergbaurundweg (Neudorf Mining Circuit Trail). Numerous yellow DENNERT historical markers provide information in German about the area with the region’s earliest known mining. Prince OTTO VON ANHALT (†1304) granted the monasteries prospecting rights in the Birnbaum territory (Biwende lode). Four km further, having arrived in Neudorf, patient searching is well worthwhile as the location abounds in artefacts bearing witness of its mining history, which ceased as late as 1941. From 1887-1912 a narrow gauge (750 mm track width) ore railway extended 4.5 km from here to the town of Silberhütte (see the signs there on the Bremsenberg). The extraction shaft of the Meiseberg mining district (Herzog Alexis Vertical Shaft on the Neudorf lode, depth 180 m) was located directly in Neudorf. Departing from its former location we go through an area called “In den Eichen” and along the southern edge of the town to the Pfaffenberg Mine (Prince Christian Shaft, depth 355 m) or to the Ölkeller. Numerous gullets (underground water channels) join the Meiseberg Wipper Gallery here. They supplied water to drive the water wheel which operated here beginning in 1805. In 1822/23 a steam engine for lifting the underground water was erected on this location. Further along we pass the Neudorf Gondelteich Pond and return to Harzgerode along the Harzgerode pathway. With the town of Harzgerode al ready in view the Albertinenweg trail branches off to the left (passing the Princess Elisabeth Albertine Mine on the Feld and Quellenzug, where lead and silver were extracted until about 1850, depth 272 m).

Those weary from so much walking ride the Selketalbahn (Selke Valley Railway) from the stop at Alexisbad or Silberhütte to the Güntersberge stop. From the Harzer Schmalspurbahn (Harz Narrow Gauge Railway) station it is only a short distance to the Bergsee, a lake with boat rental and swimming. The lake, also known as the Mühlenteich, covers an area of seven hectares and was originally built to supply water to the mills, crushers and mine operations in the Selke Valley below it. On the slope of the south shore the geosite Aufschluss Teichdamm (Dam Exposure) (N51°39.420’; E 010°58.598’) is located. For the trained eye a reference profile of national importance is apparent: Devonian Hercyn limestone in submarine sliding masses from the Lower Carboniferous is exposed. In the shady woods below the dam a very interestingly planned nature information trail begins, constructed by the local branch of the Harz Club, along which about 1.5 km further the ruins of the Güntersburg Fortress is reached. There, 484 m above sea level, an extensive fortified settlement with the remaining foundations of gate towers and other buildings laid waste at the beginning of the 17th century can be found. Historical records show that a settlement with a fortress stood on this spot on the Kohlberg in the 11th and 12th centuries. Wood frame houses with slate roofs stood on the stone foundations. As early as 1319 a route running along the foot of the Kohlbergsburg Fortress was named the “Hohe Straße” (“High Street”). Exciting adventures await the young visitors along the three kilometres of the nature experience trail where at 15 stations one can play and challenge one’s abilities.

Naturresort Schindelbruch
Stolberg/Harz - Schindelbruch
www.schindelbruch.de
Tel.: +49(0)34654 8080

Hotel Beutel „Chalet
Waldfrieden“ Stolberg/Harz
www.hotel-beutel.de
Tel.: +49(0)34654 8090

Ferienpark Merkelbach
Siptenfelde-Friedrichsbrunn
www.ostharz.de
Tel.: +49(0)39487 7530

Berghotel „Glück auf“
Güntersberge
www.berghotel-guentersberge.de
Tel.: +49(0)39488 301

Kinder- und Erholungs zentrum
Güntersberge
www.kiez-harz.de
Tel.: +49(0)39488 7622

Bergstüb’l Josephskreuz
Stolberg/Harz
www.bergstuebl-josephskreuz.de
Tel.: +49(0)34654 476

The Geopark Harz. Braunschweiger Land. Ostfalen was founded in 2002. The Regionalverband Harz e.V. has taken responsibility for the Harz area. The Königslutter-based FEMO organisation is responsible for the adjacent northern area. The map of the area shows the locations of all of the Landmarks. Flyers like this one for each of the Landmarks can be of assistance in planning your next visit to the Nature and Geopark Harz.

The plan can assist you in planning your own personal georoute. Expert guided tours in German as well as English can be arranged (contact: Head, Arbeitsgruppe der Geoführer at the Regionalverband Harz, Dr. STEIGER +49(0)3944 369085 or email: T_Steiger@gmx.de). The Regionalverband Harz e.V. wishes you pleasant recreation and interesting glimpses into the geology and history in the parts of the Nature Park Harz/Saxony-Anhalt presented here!

Author: Dr. K. George
Photos: George, Hotels
Editing: Dr. K. George, Ch. Linke
Translation: H. Pankow